THE WHEATSHEAF in Newport is so ancient that it's reputedly the place where Royalists met to discuss the future of the imprisoned King Charles I.

Even though there's another King Charles on the throne, aside from the vegan and vegetarian section, the menu has items his forebear might have eaten.

Soup, pie and mash, liver and bacon, steak, burgers, lasagne, squid - well, admittedly the old king might not have recognised the last few.

Brie and chorizo chicken came with classic chips and salad. On top of a huge piece of tender and moist chicken were thick slices of tangy chorizo, and a generous topping of melted brie.

Isle of Wight County Press: Chorizo chicken.Chorizo chicken. (Image: Matt and Cat)

The chips were big, hot and perfectly done, no pitiful skinny fries here.

This was a hearty meal that delivered more than it promised. 

The hot chicken and bacon Caesar salad was similarly impressive. Piles of soft chicken and chunks of seared bacon were generously distributed throughout the usual salad components.

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Isle of Wight County Press: Caesar salad.Caesar salad. (Image: Matt and Cat)

If there were croutons there, they were well hidden, but frankly with this much meat and cheese nobody was counting.

Next time we are not going to resist the special on the board - 'Dirty Hash': hash browns covered in chilli or pulled BBQ chicken all topped with cheese.

The characteristic skill of this kitchen seems to be to take the most basic, generic pub grub components and treat them well enough to ensure the resulting meal is both palatable and interesting.

An ability sometimes lacking in other comparable establishments.

With cheerful and prompt service, a confidently solid menu of tasty classics at rockbottom prices, we can certainly recommend the Wheatsheaf as it currently stands.

Of course, we all know that launching a new venue successfully in summer is one thing - keeping it going through the desperate days of November and February is another.

In a few months things might change but we really hope they don't.

Like all pubs, if we value them, we need to use them.

So if it's been a while since you dropped in for a pint at this particular Wheatsheaf, you might want to try your luck, and thereby encourage this promising start to go on to become a staple of Newport's hospitality trade once more.

Matt and Cat's bill: 

Chorizo chicken £14.95

Caesar salad £13.95

Total £28.90