UNLESS YOU have the prescience of Jesus, or a death row inmate, you are not likely to know what your last supper will be.

But if you could choose your final feast, what would you eat? We pondered this knotty conundrum one evening at a table inside - yes, finally inside - Brading's Hungry Bear restaurant.

Relocating the Hungry Bear to the old Brading Waxworks last autumn was a blinder of a move; their new home has the space and sophistication to match the cooking.

The menu was delightfully spare, in the modern way. We worked our way from the inside out, selecting from the mains and then orbiting to the starters, choosing dishes to compliment.

Cat began with a crayfish cocktail. The Hungry Bear's contemporary take on this traditional fishy sundae was rich yet refreshing. The fresh meat was plentiful; tasty and enhanced by the smooth house dressing. That pub-menu classic, baked Camembert starter, was played straight; simple roasted cloves of garlic giving a flavour boost to the mild mushroomy cheese.

Isle of Wight County Press:

Cat's crayfish cocktail from the Hungry Bear, Brading.

Cat's handsome lobster thermidor had its aromatic flesh sharing shell-space with king prawns, all enjoying the caress of a creamy sauce. Chips were browned to an almost sweet caramelised finish and topped with Parmesan dust. Thoughtfully one of the pincers had been cracked by the chef, so Cat was able to winkle out its prized clawmeat.

The side salad was akin to the one in the cocktail, a good basic combo of leaves and tomato. The chips - already excellent - were enhanced by a dunking in mayonnaise, a pot of which was delivered with a further claw alongside (alas impenetrable this time).

Isle of Wight County Press:

Lobster thermidor from the Hungry Bear, Brading.

The rib eye steak (main image, above) that appeared on Matt's plate caused gasps of amazement. This vast piece of meat at only £20 was excellent value. Cooked perfectly, the seared outside hid a flavourful but pink interior, and Hungry Bear's excellent signature brown chips soaked up the juices. As we were coming to expect, it was a familiar offering elevated by quality ingredients handled extremely well.

The Bears have created an impressive new presence in the town, filling the vacancy for hearty satisfying dishes and friendly service.

We never resolved the question of where we'd eat our own last supper - but with any luck the Hungry Bear may become Brading's ultimate destination.

Matt and Cat's bill:

Baked camembert - £6.95

Crayfish cocktail - £7.95

Rib eye steak - £19.95

Lobster thermidor - £21.95

TOTAL: £56.80

RATING: FOUR STARS - very good indeed; well worth seeking out.

CONTACT DETAILS:

Hungry Bear, 48 High Street, Brading, PO36 0DQ

Tel: 01983 472684

Web: hungrybear.online

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