CAUTIOUS diners may worry that Nomad is going to be too challenging.

They might prefer something simpler, quieter and maybe cheaper. These people are wrong — let us explain how.

'Shut up and feed me' is Nomad's signature methodology — pay your money and take what comes.

Matt went down this rabbit hole. His first course of four was cached in a bamboo steamer, smoke-infused hot food within.

A dramatic bit of food theatre in Newport — not Shoreditch or Bray.

Inside, sweet, sticky pork reclined opulently in a cloudlike bao — a bowl of pho was bursting with oriental vegetables and herbs, and dumplings relinquished mysterious contents in a few delightful bites.

Prawn laab, Nomad-style, was four succulent king prawns, one still shell-on.

Enticing from their bed of noodles twirled on crisp lettuce leaves, they were dressed with sensationally spicy, tingly embellishments plus fresh pickles galore.

A steaming hot, tender, and moist barbecue jerk chicken leg with baked yam was infused with a wonderful black, rich, sweet and tangy sauce. Matt tore into its crispy skin, savouring the baked-in flavours.

Cat's three-dish vegan lunch deal at Nomad is as full-on sexy muddyfunster as the rest of the Nomad offering.

Vegetable dim sum were prettied up with saffron-yellow pickled cauliflower and sparky red chilli.

When dabbled in their accompanying lemongrass dip, these tender dumplings yielded to the flavour burst which danced on Cat's eager tongue.

In the wrong hands tofu can be bland, soggy and regrettable. At Nomad, it is tucked up cosily inside a fluffy bao bun, lightly breaded to support its creamy silky-smooth interior.

A taste hit is provided by more red chilli, mushroom ketchup and a sprig of aniseedy Thai basil. Soft. Delicious. You need this.

Mushroom ramen pho was packed with goodies. Like delving into a clown's pocket, Cat hoyed out forkfuls of crispy beansprouts, pickles, skinny noodles and yet more sprigs of basil and mint leaves.

And then, trufito — a sensual dessert, glistening with luscious chocolatey promise.

We are confident that Nomad is not only as good as it ever was, but better. 'Shut up and feed me' gives even the most cautious diner a way to dive straight into Nomad's oriental kaleidoscope of a menu with the full confidence that they're going to get a truly excellent meal.

Matt and Cat's bill

Matt: Shut up and feed me (four courses) £25

Cat: Express lunch deal (vegan) £10

Total £35

Five stars: one of the very best places we have visited.

Read a longer version of this review, and others, at Matt and Cat's Eating Out Guide.

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