By Matt and Cat's Eating Out Guide.

Sometimes street food doesn't bother with the street bit at all; it just finds somewhere nice and sets up shop.

This is the case with Call It What You Want in Cowes. There are no printed menus; the bill of fare is written in huge letters on the windows to draw you in — as indeed it did to us.

We deduced the restaurant's Deep South concept from the dishes' names, which included griddled voodoo chicken breast, three-fish Louisiana chowder, and yee-haw beans.

Matt, of course, chose The Reuben, an open sandwich laden with 12-hour cooked salt beef, which smothered the sliver of toast below, and was in turn stacked with melted Swiss cheese, pickles and yankee mustard.

If this had been America we would doubtless have been served that abomination that the US passes off as Swiss cheese — or, as they prefer to call it with refreshing frankness, 'Swiss'.

But as we were safely in Europe the Reuben was topped with curls of genuine grated Gruyere. This was a magnificent meal; big, dirty, meaty and so very tasty.

The chowder's base broth was smooth and creamy. At first glance it looked more like that blended favourite, soup de poisson.

But as Cat's spoon poked its depths, she scooped out pieces of smoked haddock, sea bass and mussels.

The fish's soft textures were supported by more robust vegetables; a chunk of pepper here, some celery there.

Flakes of crispy bacon added yet more textural and visual interest and a slightly salty, meaty bonus.

Finally, at the top of the crunch tree was the toasted bread, which Cat dunked into the creamy melange with pleasure.

This was a hearty bowl of Southern soul; hard to believe this delicious comfort food was just £7.50.

Alongside, we ordered those yee-haw beans to share — a wooden bowl of cowboy-style beans loaded with paprikary chorizo; successfully elevating the humble baked bean into something with a hint of the exotic.

We really like Call It What You Want.

The service was friendly and attentive. Most dishes were very competitively priced, respecting their street food origins.

But, as ever with us, it has to be about the food. Call It What You Want knocks it out of the park with their bold, inspired and unusual dishes.

Matt and Cat's bill:

Reuben £8.00

Chowder £7.50

Fries £3.50

Yee-haw beans £3.50

Total £22.50

Five stars.

For the full-length version of the review, go to Matt and Cat's Eating Out Guide.

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